Recipe

Tallow-Wrapped Brisket, Finished in the Oven

now we wrap and finish in the oven at 225F. the white gel is tallow from a previous cook to maximize juiciness

I explained this one in the caption myself, and it is the single best thing I do to a brisket. Lumps of set tallow spooned over the bark before the paper goes on.

Two reasons it works. The fat melts into the bark as it finishes, which puts back the moisture the stall took out without steaming the crust the way foil does. And it is tallow from a previous cook, so it is already carrying smoke and salt and beef — it is not a neutral fat, it is concentrated brisket.

Then the oven, deliberately. Once a brisket is wrapped it has taken all the smoke it will ever take, and an oven holds 225°F better than any fire you are tending at two in the morning.

Feeds
12
Hands-on
20 minutes at the wrap
Finish
Oven, 225°F
Needs
Tallow from a previous cook

Six hours of smoke, then four to six in the oven wrapped, then two hours of rest.

Spoonfuls of beef tallow laid on the bark before wrappingA wood wedge tilting the brisket to drain the fat
Shot the night it was made. Open any picture for the full photograph.

What you need

The brisket

  • 1 whole packer brisket, 14–16 lb, trimmed
  • Equal parts coarse salt and 16-mesh black pepper
  • Cracked coriander seed

The wrap

  • 1/2 cup beef tallow, set and solid — saved from a previous cook
  • Unwaxed pink butcher paper, a long sheet
  • A probe thermometer that stays in

How it goes

  1. 1 — Save the tallow from the last brisket

    Every brisket renders a cup or more of fat into the tray. Strained and set in a jar, it keeps for months, and it is the ingredient this whole method depends on. There is no shortcut on the first cook.

  2. 2 — Smoke it unwrapped to 165°F, about six hours

    225°F, fat cap up, oak. Do not wrap early — everything the bark is going to become, it becomes in these six hours.

  3. 3 — Wait for the bark to SET, not just darken

    Touch it. If it smears on your finger it is not ready; if it is dry and firm and does not move, it is. Wrapping before the bark sets gives you a wet grey brisket.

  4. 4 — Lay out the paper and spoon the tallow on

    A long double sheet of unwaxed butcher paper. Brisket on it fat side up, then five or six spoonfuls of solid tallow laid across the top. It will look like too much. It melts to nothing.

  5. 5 — Paper, never foil

    Foil is airtight and steams the bark soft — you get pot roast. Paper breathes just enough to let moisture out while holding the heat in, and the bark survives.

    pro tip — Wrap it tight, like a parcel, tucking the ends under so the weight of the brisket holds them shut. No tape, no string.

  6. 6 — Into a 225°F oven for four to six hours

    On a tray to catch what renders. Probe in the thickest part of the flat. The oven holds temperature far more steadily than a smoker and nothing more is gained from the fire at this point.

  7. 7 — Probe-tender, around 203°F

    Test in the flat. No resistance at all, like going into room-temperature butter. Temperature is the guide, the feel is the answer.

  8. 8 — Rest wrapped for two hours

    Still in the paper, in a dry cooler with towels packed round it. Two hours minimum. This is also when the last of the tallow finishes soaking in.

  9. 9 — Save the tallow again

    Pour off everything in the tray, strain it, jar it. That is next month's brisket already paid for.

Tallow from a previous cook to maximise juiciness. That is what I wrote at the time and I stand by it. LFG.

More of what comes out of this kitchen on the food wall.

Every picture on this page is one of mine. I paint for a living the rest of the time — that is the gallery, and the originals are for sale.