Recipe

Sugar-Crusted Raisin Walnut Buns

current situation: raisin walnut buns

Six big buns rather than a dozen small ones. They stay soft inside for two days instead of drying out by lunchtime, and they look like something.

Soak the raisins first. Dry raisins in a dough pull water out of the crumb around them and leave hard pebbles with dry rings round them. Ten minutes in hot water or tea and they go plump and stay that way.

The sugar on top is coarse — nibs, pearl sugar or crushed sugar cubes — not caster. Fine sugar dissolves into the glaze and disappears; coarse crystals survive the oven and crunch.

Makes
6 large buns
Hands-on
35 minutes
Rise
2 1/2 hours
Sugar
Coarse, not fine

Three and a half hours, mostly rising. They are best within a day.

Raisin walnut buns crusted with sugar
Shot the night it was made. Open the picture for the full photograph.

What you need

The dough

  • 4 cups bread flour
  • 1 1/4 cups warm whole milk
  • 2 1/4 tsp instant yeast
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1 1/2 tsp salt
  • 5 tbsp soft butter
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • Zest of 1 orange

Folded in

  • 1 1/2 cups raisins, soaked in hot water 10 minutes and drained
  • 1 cup walnuts, roughly chopped

The top

  • 1 egg, beaten with a splash of milk
  • 1/3 cup coarse pearl or nib sugar

How it goes

  1. 1 — Soak the raisins and dry them off

    Ten minutes in hot water, then drained and patted dry. Plump and no longer thirsty. Wet raisins going into dough will make it slack, so dry them properly.

  2. 2 — Knead the dough eight minutes before anything goes in

    Soft, smooth and slightly tacky. Orange zest and cinnamon in with the flour — the zest is subtle and it is what makes people ask what is in them.

  3. 3 — First rise until doubled, 90 minutes

    Covered, somewhere warm.

  4. 4 — Raisins and walnuts folded in after the rise

    Dough pressed flat, fruit and nuts scattered over, folded in on itself four or five times. Added at the start they tear the gluten as it forms.

  5. 5 — Six pieces, rolled tight against the counter

    Weighed into six, each one cupped under your palm and rolled in circles against an unfloured surface until the top goes smooth and tight. That tension is what makes the dome.

    pro tip — Any raisin sticking out of the surface will burn black. Push the stray ones back in and pinch the dough over them.

  6. 6 — Second rise, well spaced, one hour

    On a lined tray with plenty of room — they will nearly double. Covered loosely.

  7. 7 — Egg wash, then coarse sugar

    Brushed all over, then the sugar scattered on from a height so it lands evenly rather than in clumps.

  8. 8 — 375°F for 22 to 25 minutes

    Until deep gold and hollow-sounding underneath. Cooled on a rack — left on the tray the bottoms go damp.

Current situation. Split one while it is still warm and put butter on it. LFG.

More of what comes out of this kitchen on the food wall.

Every picture on this page is one of mine. I paint for a living the rest of the time — that is the gallery, and the originals are for sale.