Recipe

Hot Dogs with Relish, Raw Onion and Ketchup

current situation: 1st date, bring your own condiments

A hot dog is not a recipe and this is not a joke. There are about five decisions in a hot dog and everybody gets two of them wrong.

Split it and griddle it. A boiled hot dog is a sad grey tube. Cut almost through lengthways, open it flat, and put the cut faces down in a hot dry pan — it browns, it curls, the edges crisp, and it stops being a boiled thing.

Then toast the bun in the fat left behind. That is it. That is the whole difference between this and a hot dog at a petrol station.

Makes
4
Hands-on
10 minutes
In the pan
6 minutes
Condiments
Bring your own

Fifteen minutes, and ten of them are chopping an onion.

Two hot dogs with relish, onion and ketchup
Shot the night it was made. Open the picture for the full photograph.

What you need

The dogs

  • 4 all-beef hot dogs
  • 4 sesame hot dog buns
  • 1 tbsp butter, for the buns

On top

  • 1 small white onion, chopped fine
  • Sweet green pickle relish
  • Ketchup
  • Yellow mustard, for anyone who wants it

How it goes

  1. 1 — Split them lengthways, not all the way through

    A shallow cut down the length, deep enough to open the dog out flat like a book but not so deep it falls in two.

  2. 2 — Cut faces down in a hot dry pan

    No oil. A hot dog is mostly fat and it supplies its own. Three minutes on the cut face until it is browned and the edges have curled up.

  3. 3 — Flip for two minutes to blister the skin

    The round side goes into the fat the cut side rendered out. The casing tightens and blisters in spots.

  4. 4 — Toast the buns in the same pan

    Opened out, cut sides down, in whatever fat is left plus a little butter. Ninety seconds until golden. A toasted bun holds relish; an untoasted one goes to paste.

    pro tip — Sesame buns burn faster than plain ones because of the oil in the seeds. Watch them.

  5. 5 — Chop the onion fine and raw

    Properly fine — small enough that you get some in every bite rather than a lump in one. Raw. Rinsed under cold water and shaken dry if it is a fierce onion.

  6. 6 — Build it onion first, relish second, ketchup last

    Onion down into the bun so it does not roll off, relish along the length, then ketchup in a zigzag over the top where you can see it. Order matters — ketchup first and the onion slides straight out.

First date. Bring your own condiments. LFG.

More of what comes out of this kitchen on the food wall.

Every picture on this page is one of mine. I paint for a living the rest of the time — that is the gallery, and the originals are for sale.