Recipe

Crisp-Skinned Chicken in Peppered White Gravy

current situation: fried chicken n gravy

I call it fried chicken and gravy. Look closely at the plate and there is no breading anywhere — it is chicken skin, fried hard in its own fat until it goes gold and tight, and a white gravy built in the same pan.

Which means the one rule is: only half the chicken goes in the gravy. Sit the pieces so the skin side stays proud of the sauce. Spoon gravy over crisp chicken skin and you have soft chicken skin, and you have thrown away the twenty minutes you spent making it.

The gravy is black pepper and not much else. It should be aggressive enough to taste on its own off a spoon.

Feeds
4
Hands-on
40 minutes
Skin
Started cold, rendered slow
Gravy
In the same pan

Forty minutes, most of it the chicken rendering quietly skin-side down.

Fried chicken in white gravy with beetroot and butter breadFried chicken drowned in white gravy with cranberryThe gravy and cranberry plate shot a second time
Shot the night it was made. Open any picture for the full photograph.

What you need

The chicken

  • 8 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • 2 tbsp coarse cracked black pepper
  • 1 tsp granulated garlic
  • 1 tbsp neutral oil, just to start it off

The white gravy

  • 4 tbsp of the chicken fat from the pan
  • 4 tbsp flour
  • 2 cups whole milk, warmed
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • 1 1/2 tbsp coarse cracked black pepper — yes, that much
  • Salt to taste

On the plate

  • Sliced cooked beetroot, cold
  • Thick slices of white bread
  • Plenty of soft butter

How it goes

  1. 1 — Dry the skin and season it the night before

    Patted dry, salted and peppered, uncovered on a rack in the fridge overnight. Wet skin will not crisp, it will only steam, and no amount of heat argues with that.

  2. 2 — Skin side down in a COLD pan

    Chicken into a cold pan with a teaspoon of oil, then the heat turned to medium. Starting cold renders the fat out slowly instead of seizing the skin against the metal.

  3. 3 — Twenty minutes, skin side down, barely touched

    That is not a typo. Twenty minutes over medium, pressing occasionally with a spatula so the whole skin stays in contact. It goes from white to gold and the fat pools out around it.

  4. 4 — Flip for eight minutes, then out

    Turn them, another eight minutes until cooked through — 175°F in a thigh. Onto a rack, skin up, while you make the gravy.

  5. 5 — Pour off all but four tablespoons of fat

    There will be a lot. Keep four spoonfuls in the pan and save the rest in a jar; schmaltz is better than oil for almost everything.

  6. 6 — Flour into the fat, cooked two full minutes

    Whisked in and cooked until it smells toasted rather than raw and goes the colour of sand. Scrape the brown bits off the bottom as you go — they are the gravy.

  7. 7 — Milk slowly, then the pepper, heavy

    Warm milk a splash at a time, whisking, then the stock. Simmer five minutes until it coats a spoon. Then a tablespoon and a half of coarse black pepper. It should look speckled and taste hot.

    pro tip — Warm milk, added slowly. Cold milk dumped in all at once lumps instantly and you will be straining it.

  8. 8 — Plate it half in, half out

    Gravy ladled over one side of the plate, chicken set down so the skin sits clear of it. Beetroot on the other side, buttered bread across the top.

Current situation. The bread is for the gravy and you will want a second slice. LFG.

More of what comes out of this kitchen on the food wall.

Every picture on this page is one of mine. I paint for a living the rest of the time — that is the gallery, and the originals are for sale.