Recipe

Cold-Fermented Pizza Dough

current situation: Sunday funday

Four ingredients, five minutes of work, and then you leave it alone in a cold fridge for a day. That is the whole thing, and it is better than dough that took an afternoon of kneading.

Time replaces effort. Kneading develops gluten fast by force; a wet dough left to sit develops the same gluten on its own, for free, while you are asleep. And the cold is not just storage — yeast slows almost to a stop below 40°F while the enzymes that break starch into sugar keep working, so a cold-fermented dough browns better and tastes of bread instead of tasting of yeast.

Make a double batch. It keeps three days in the fridge and gets better for two of them.

Makes
Four 12-inch bases
Hands-on
10 minutes
Cold ferment
24–72 hours
Kneading
None

Ten minutes of work, a day in the fridge, and two hours on the counter before it is shaped.

Pizza dough proving beside the week's ingredientsTwo bowls of dough proving under cling filmEight dough rounds proving in one bowl
Shot the night it was made. Open any picture for the full photograph.

What you need

All of it

  • 1000 g bread flour — weigh it, cups are not accurate enough for dough
  • 650 g cold water (65%)
  • 20 g salt
  • 3 g instant yeast — that is about a teaspoon, and it is deliberately tiny
  • 20 g olive oil

How it goes

  1. 1 — Weigh everything. Do not use cups.

    A cup of flour can vary by twenty percent depending on how it was scooped, and twenty percent on a pizza dough is the difference between slack and stiff. A scale costs fifteen dollars.

  2. 2 — Mix only until there is no dry flour

    Hands or a spoon, one minute. It will be shaggy, sticky and ugly. That is a finished dough at this stage — there is no kneading in this recipe.

  3. 3 — A teaspoon of yeast and no more

    Over twenty-four cold hours a tiny amount of yeast does everything a large amount does in two warm hours, and the result tastes of wheat rather than of yeast. More yeast is the single most common mistake.

  4. 4 — Cover it and put it straight in the fridge

    No bulk rise on the counter first. Straight in, covered, for at least twenty-four hours and up to three days.

  5. 5 — It will barely look like it has risen. It has.

    Cold dough expands slowly and stays dense-looking. Pull a corner and you will see a web of bubbles through it. That is the gluten that was built without you.

    pro tip — At seventy-two hours it smells faintly of beer and makes the best pizza of the three days. Past that it starts to go slack and tear.

  6. 6 — Divide into balls two hours before you bake

    Out of the fridge, cut into four, each one shaped into a tight ball and left covered on a floured tray at room temperature. Two hours, not less — cold dough will not stretch and springs back.

  7. 7 — Stretch by hand, never a rolling pin

    Fingertips from the centre outwards, leaving the last inch untouched. A rolling pin crushes every bubble you spent a day making and gives you a cracker.

  8. 8 — Hottest oven you have, on preheated metal

    500°F or more with a heavy tray or an upturned sheet pan heating for half an hour. Twelve to fourteen minutes.

Sunday funday. Make it Saturday and the Sunday takes care of itself. LFG.

More of what comes out of this kitchen on the food wall.

Every picture on this page is one of mine. I paint for a living the rest of the time — that is the gallery, and the originals are for sale.